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The Old New Place and the Sununu Place
Note:
Route descriptions complements of Jason Chen and Walt Wehner.
Crag Descriptions:
The
"Old New Place" is a 60 foot, southeast facing, basalt cliff with approximately 20 traditional
routes and topropes. Many excellent and classic lines, mostly cracks, are
found here. Many are best toproped. This is a good
crag at which to escape the crowds at the Overlook or the Playground.
Bolting is not permitted here!
The
"Sununu Place" is a small crag with 2 bolted (possibly minus hangers)
sport routes located just below the Old New Place.
Getting There:
To get to the "Old New Place" from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 200 yards,
take a left on Meadow lane. Park near 719 Meadow Lane, being careful not to block
mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take
the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. The "Old
New Place" is almost straight out, but veer left (north) slightly. It is a very short
walk to the high spot on the cliff edge. The
descent is via an unobvious rock trail at the south end of the crag, at a low
spot along the cliff edge.
Crag location map.
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Photos with the routes delineated (suitable
for enhancing this guide) are requested. Please contact
Jan Studebaker to volunteer. |
The
Old New Place (routes: listed from left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
*** 1. Mike's Route 5.11a/b no bolts, anchor with gear Climb out of the
cave behind the giant boulder and work right to a ledge. From here, fire
up the overhung flake/crack system to the top. A direct start (10 feet
right) is a height-dependent 5.11c.
** 2. Direct Start 5.11d/12a no bolts, anchor with gear Find the thin
dihedral 25 feet left of Mike's Route and go straight up. After about 20
feet, the route rejoins #3.
*** 3. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Laybacking up and left leads to
face moves and fun jamming.
** 4. ? 5.9+ no bolts, anchor with gear Jamming and face climbing to a
small roof, then left and up.
*** 5. ? 5.10b no bolts, anchor with gear Same start as for #4, but go
right and around the roof.
** 6. ? 5.10a no bolts, anchor with gear Start 15 feet right of #5 on
blocks. Go up a weird slab, and stay left up cracks and face moves.
** 7. ? 5.10c no bolts, anchor with gear Start 10 feet right of #6, then
rejoin it for 10 feet. Move right on a steep wall with jugs and to the
top.
*** 8. ? 5.13? no bolts, anchor with gear Straight up the overhung, blank
dihedral. Sick, uncompleted open project.
** 9. ? 5.10a no bolts, anchor with gear Up and rightwards on a slabby
ramp, then trend back left again and top out.
** 10. Direct Start 5.10a no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the arete/cracks
10 feet right of #9.
*** 11. ? 5.12a/b no bolts, anchor with gear The shallow dihedral 5 feet
left of Sin-wave. Go up, slightly right, and then back left to the top.
****12. Sin-Wave 5.11b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the obvious
S-shaped crack.
****13. Sidewinder 5.11c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the undercling
flake, then straight up the obvious dihedral.
** 14. ? 5.13? no bolts, anchor with gear Same start as Sidewinder, then
move right and up a shallow fingercrack. Uncompleted route.
** 15. ? 5.11a/b no bolts, anchor with gear Up the same start as #13, then
left and over the small roof.
** 16. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear 15 feet left of the prominent arete, climb up and rightwards, then straight up easy cracks to the top.
****17. 4-star Arete 5.11b no bolts, anchor with gear Up the obvious
arete., then finish as for #13.
*** 18. ? 5.10c/d no bolts, anchor with gear Up the crack around the
corner from 4-star Arete, then work left and finish as for #13.
* 19. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Up and right on a ramp to an
overhung block.
****20. Berserker 5.11d no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the thin handcrack to a ramp, then up the small roof and to the top.
The Sununu Place (routes: listed from left to
right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
? 1. Barbara's Midnight Missile 5.10c/d? 3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor
? 2. Bush Whacker 5.9+? 3 bolts, use anchor for 1.
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