|
The "Y"
Note:
Route descriptions complements of Jason Chen and Walt Wehner.
Crag
Description:
The "Y" is a 45 foot basalt canyon with about 35 traditional and toprope routes. The
"Y" is a popular toproping area for locals. Due to the narrow canyon,
it's not climbable in the winter. There are routes on both sides of the
canyon - the north side (which faces south) has most of them. The descent is at the west end of the
cliffs.
Bolting is not permitted here!
Getting There:
The "Y" is just
east of the intersection of NM 502 and NM 4. The unobvious parking area is just past the
first guard rail on the south side of NM 502. Park along the road (beside the fence), and
walk between the guard rail and the fence to the cliff's edge. The descent is at the west end
of the cliffs.
Crag location map.
|
Photos with the routes delineated (suitable
for enhancing this guide) are requested. Please contact
Jan Studebaker to volunteer. |
The "Y" North Wall
(routes: listed from left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
? 1. Six Pack Crack 5.11b/c? no bolts, anchor with gear Leftmost crack
climb.
? 2. Easy Start 5.10a? no bolts, anchor with gear Up just to the left of
Spiral staircase, pull the roof, then join #1.
*** 3. Spiral Staircase 5.11b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the
smooth, flared dihedral and then work rightwards and up. Classic.
** 4. Ringjam 5.11a no bolts, anchor with gear Up the fingercrack right
of Spiral Staircase, then finish on easier ground.
* 5. Ratshit Cave 5.10b/c? no bolts, anchor with gear Right of Ringjam.
** 6. Batshit Roof 5.11a no bolts, anchor with gear Up on blocky cracks,
then climb out either side of the roof.
*** 7. Triple Overhang 5.10b no bolts, anchor with gear Up a thin crack
to face climbing, then finish up blocky cracks.
*** 8. Open Book 5.8+ no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the slippery
dihedral to a hand crack, then work right and up.
** 9. Hard Start 5.11c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the arête just
right of Open Book, then up easier climbing to the top.
** 10. Less-Hard Start 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the fingercrack
right of Hard Start, then the same finish.
** 11. ? 5.9- no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the dihedral 6 feet right
of Less-Hard Start, then same finish.
*** 12. Boyscrout 5.8 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the blocks/crack and
work left to share finish with #9-11.
** 13. The Notch 5.10d no bolts, anchor with gear Start same as Boyscout,
then go straight up from the ledge instead of right.
? 14. El Queso Grande 5.12d/13a? no bolts, anchor with gear Same start
as Boyscout, but go right and parallel Wisconsin.
****15. Wisconsin 5.10c no bolts, anchor with gear A classic crack
climb just left of the Nose.
****16. The Nose 5.11d/12a 1 bolt, anchor with gear The classic face
climb at the Y. Climb up the sustained prow/face.
** 17. Beastie Crack 5.10c/d no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the fingercrack right of the Nose, then either of 2 easy finishes.
** 18. Herb's Roof 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the loose face to a
small roof. Pull this on jugs and top out.
* 19. Original Open Book 5.8 no bolts, anchor with gear Same start as
Herb's Roof, then go way right and up the dihedral.
** 20. Left Mother 5.10d no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the choss,
then the leftmost crack.
** 21. Middle Mother 5.10b no bolts, anchor with gear Up the choss,
straight up the handcrack.
** 22. Right Mother 5.11c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the desperate,
flared dihedral with a grungy crack in the back.
** 23. IDBI Wall 5.11c no bolts, anchor with gear Around the corner from
the Mothers. Climb straight up the thin face.
* 24. The Ramp 5.7 no bolts, anchor with gear Very easy. Up the slabby
crack, then work right to share finish of Porter Route.
** 25. Porter Route 5.9+ no bolts, anchor with gear Right of the Ramp,
climb straight up the slightly overhung crack and top out.
* 26. Monster 5.11a/b no bolts, anchor with gear Crack right of Porter
Route.
* 27. Hessing Route 5.7 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the slabby crack.
* 28. Lizard Man 5.8 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the face just right
of Hessing Route
The "Y" South Wall
(routes listed from left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
? 1. ? 5.12b? bolts, anchor with gear The face with hangerless bolts
just left of Ape Shit.
*** 2. Ape Shit 5.10b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the steep face to a
handcrack.
** 3. Easy Start 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Start 10 feet right of Apeshit, go up 15 feet, and work left to the top.
* 4. Black Mantel 5.10d no bolts, anchor with gear Toprope problem.
Dirty.
*** 5. Twin Cracks 5.7+ no bolts, anchor with gear A good beginner route
up 2 fingercracks.
*** 6. Little Roof 5.8+ no bolts, anchor with gear Up the handcrack and
right out the small roof at the top.
** 7. South Side Traverse V0 (5.9) boulder problem Traverse either
direction across the south wall.
|
